Support

Whether you're building your first race bike or dialling in your setup, we've got you covered. Browse our guides below or reach out to the Shr3dr team if you need a hand.

🔧 Bike Builds

Building a BMX race bike from scratch can feel overwhelming, but with the right parts and a bit of patience it's one of the most rewarding things you can do. Here's how we approach a complete build:

• Start with the frame — choose a frame that suits your age group, class, and riding style. Consider geometry, weight, and material (aluminium vs chromoly).
• Fork selection — match your fork to your frame brand or go aftermarket. Check steerer tube size (1-1/8" is standard for most race bikes).
• Drivetrain — select your sprocket, chain, and cranks based on your gear ratio preference. Most racers run 44T front with a 16T rear.
• Bars & stem — bar height and width are personal preference. Taller bars suit bigger riders; narrower bars improve reaction speed off the gate.
• Brakes — most race setups run a single rear brake. Ensure your cable routing is clean and lever reach is set correctly.
• Final checks — torque all bolts to spec, check headset and BB play, and bed in your brake pads before race day.

🛞 Wheelset Building

A hand-built wheelset can transform your ride. Here's a basic guide to building BMX race wheels:

• Components needed — rim, hub, spokes (correct length), nipples, and spoke key.
• Spoke length — use an online spoke calculator with your rim and hub dimensions. Getting this wrong means the build won't work.
• Lacing pattern — most BMX race wheels use 3-cross or radial lacing. 3-cross is stronger; radial is lighter.
• Tensioning — bring all spokes up to even tension gradually. Use a spoke tension meter if possible.
• Truing — true the wheel laterally and radially. A well-built wheel should have less than 0.5mm runout.
• Stress relief — squeeze spoke pairs firmly to settle the build before final tension check.

Not confident building your own? Reach out via our Contact page and we can point you in the right direction.

⚙️ Parts Setup & Maintenance

• Chain tension — on a single-speed BMX, your chain should have about 5–10mm of vertical play at the tightest point.
• Headset — check for play by squeezing the front brake and rocking the bike forward. Any knock means your headset needs tightening.
• Bottom bracket — spin your cranks with the chain off. They should spin freely with no grinding or lateral play.
• Tyre pressure — race tyres typically run 90–110 PSI. Pump up before every session.
• Bolts — check stem, bar, and seat bolts regularly. Vibration from the track loosens things fast.

📐 Sizing & Fit Guides

Getting the right size frame is critical for performance and comfort on the track.

• Top tube length — the most important measurement. Match to your height and class: Junior 18.5"–19.5", Pro XL 21"+.
• Bar height — generally 8"–9" rise for cruisers and taller riders; 7"–8" for junior/pro class.
• Crank length — 165mm is standard for most adult riders. Shorter cranks (155–160mm) suit smaller or younger riders.
• Seat height — race bikes typically run seats low (just above the top tube level) for clearance in the air.

Not sure what size suits you? Get in touch and we'll help you find the right fit.

❓ FAQs

Do you offer bike builds as a service?
Yes we do. Contact us with your parts list. 

Can I order specific parts not listed on the site?
Most definitely — reach out via the Contact page and we'll see what we can source.

What's the difference between aluminium and chromoly frames?
Aluminium is lighter and stiffer — preferred for racing. Chromoly is more durable and has some flex, which some riders prefer for feel. Both are used at elite level.